Wikipedia

Nico Ladenis

Nico Peter Ladenis
Born(1934-04-22)22 April 1934
Tanganyika
Died10 September 2023(2023-09-10) (aged 89)
EducationPrince of Wales School, Kenya and Hull University
SpouseDinah-Jane Ladenis (m. 1963)
Culinary career
Ratings

  • 5 AA Rosettes

    Dr of Economics
Previous restaurants
    • Chez Nico 3 Michelin stars
    • Chez Nico, Dulwich
    • Chez Nico, Battersea
    • Chez Nico, Shinfield
    • Simply Nico, Rochester Row
    • Chez Nico, Great Portland Street
    • Nico Central, Great Portland Street
    • Chez Nico (Nico at 90) Grosvenor House Hotel, Park Lane
    • Incognico, Shaftesbury Avenue
    • Deca, Conduit Street
Award won

Nico Ladenis (22 April 1934 – 10 September 2023) was a British chef. He was self-taught and was the first British chef to be awarded three Michelin Stars, for his restaurant Chez Nico in London.

Known for his fiery temper and his mantra "the customer is not always right", he taught a generation of British chefs who went on to run their own businesses, win Michelin stars and become household names, including Marco Pierre White.

In 1999, he asked to be removed from the Michelin Guide, due in part to prostate cancer and because of his disillusionment with the London restaurant scene. He retired to the south of France in 2000 and returned to England in 2011.

Early life

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Ladenis was born in Tanganyika, now Tanzania, on 22 April 1934,[1][2][3] to Greek parents.[2][4] After gaining a degree in Economics at Hull, he worked at The Sunday Times.

Career

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Ladenis was a self-taught chef, and did not attend any culinary schools. He opened Chez Nico in Dulwich in London in 1973, aged 39. In 1976 or 1977 he met fellow chef Michel Roux at a party, and Roux arranged for him to work for a week at the three Michelin star Moulin de Mougins under Roger Vergé.[2]

In 1980 he moved Chez Nico to Queenstown Road in Battersea. It was awarded a Michelin star in 1981, and a second in 1984. In 1985 he moved Chez Nico to Reading, Berkshire, but the change was not a success. Within a year he moved to Rochester Row in Victoria, London, with a new name, Simply Nico. After three years he moved to a larger restaurant in Great Portland Street, reverting to Chez Nico again, with Simply Nico being retained as a bistro.

In 1989, he opened Simply Nico, a bistro in Pimlico, London.[5]

In 1992, Ladenis was the first named chef to move his restaurant into a five-star hotel, as Rocco Forte recruited him to move Chez Nico to the Grosvenor House Hotel on Park Lane, first called Nico at Ninety, and later Chez Nico at Ninety Park Lane. Ladenis was ambitious to be awarded three Michelin stars, and his two existing stars transferred with the move. Chez Nico on Great Portland Street was converted into the bistro-style Nico Central.[6][7]

In 1995 Chez Nico at 90 Park Lane was awarded three Michelin stars.[8] Chez Nico, under Ladenis, was one of only seven restaurants in the UK (as of 2013) to have received the maximum score of ten out of ten by the Good Food Guide.[9] He was the first British chef, and first self-taught chef to earn three Michelin stars.[10]

In 1999, he asked Michelin to remove him from the guide, giving up his three Michelin stars. He said that "Working in a three-star restaurant is very restrictive and people do not want to eat very expensive food. You cannot fool around in the restaurant if you have three stars and I want to make it more relaxed."[11] He later admitted that this was due in part from being disillusioned with the restaurant scene in London, but also because he had been diagnosed with prostate cancer the month before speaking to the Michelin reviewers.[12]

He subsequently opened more restaurants: in 2000, Incognico opened on Shaftesbury Avenue,[13] and in 2002, Deca opened on Conduit street.[14] He decided to step back from running restaurants in 2003, and retire fully from the business. His two daughters remained involved in both businesses.[15]

Ladenis was known for his uncompromising personality, insisiting, for example, that diners could not have a second gin and tonic, or add salt to his food.

He appeared on television in Take Six Cooks (1985), and wrote two semi-autobiographical books, My Gastronomy (1987) and Nico (1996).

Personal life

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Ladenis was married to Dinah-Jane Ladenis, with whom he had two daughters, Isabella and Natasha.[16] He died on 10 September 2023, at the age of 89.[17][18]

Published works

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  • Ladenis, Nico; Crompton-Batt, Alan (1987). My Gastronomy. London: Ebury. ISBN 9780852236826.
  • Ladenis, Nico; Brigdale, Martin (1996). Nico. London: Macmillan. ISBN 9780333651773.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "Birthday's today". The Telegraph. 22 April 2011. Archived from the original on April 25, 2011. Retrieved 21 April 2014. Mr Nico Ladenis, restaurateur, 77
  2. ^ a b c Fox, Sue (20 October 1996). "How We Met". The Independent. Archived from the original on 25 January 2013. Retrieved 23 September 2012. (subscription required)
  3. ^ "Birthdays". The Independent. 22 April 1994. Archived from the original on 25 January 2013. Retrieved 23 September 2012. (subscription required)
  4. ^ Kirchenbaum, Grace (8 November 1990). "Reading Food : Cookbooks: A Fan's Notes". The Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 23 September 2012.
  5. ^ Rose, Don (7 May 1989). "London dining goes far beyond those soggy old brussels sprouts". Chicago Sun-Times. Archived from the original on 11 September 2016. Retrieved 23 September 2012. (subscription required)
  6. ^ Green, Emily (15 August 1992). "Reaching for three stars on Park Lane: Nico Ladenis has moved into the grand end of the market. Emily Green visited his old and new addresses". The Independent. Archived from the original on 2022-06-20. Retrieved 23 September 2012.
  7. ^ Hadden, Mark (15 June 2006). "My Gastronomy, by Nico Ladenis". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. Retrieved 23 September 2012.[dead link]
  8. ^ Green, Emily (10 February 1995). "Two temperamental but great chefs". The Independent. Archived from the original on 25 January 2013. Retrieved 23 September 2012. (subscription required)
  9. ^ Duffin, Claire (2 September 2012). "Simon Rogan equals Blumenthal's perfect 10 in 2013 restaurant guide". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 23 September 2012.
  10. ^ Rayner, Jay (21 July 2002). "Deca, London". The Observer. Retrieved 23 September 2012.
  11. ^ Watson-Smyth, Kate (18 January 2000). "Only one Michelin three-star in Britain". The Independent. Archived from the original on 25 January 2013. Retrieved 23 September 2012. (subscription required)
  12. ^ Bozec, Louise (13 March 2002). "Ladenis to open restaurants after beating cancer". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. Retrieved 23 September 2012.[dead link]
  13. ^ MacLeod, Tracey (1 July 2000). "This one will run and run". The Independent. Archived from the original on 25 January 2013. Retrieved 23 September 2012. (subscription required)
  14. ^ Johnson, Richard (27 July 2002). "Classic faux pas". The Independent. Archived from the original on 25 January 2013. Retrieved 23 September 2012.
  15. ^ Harris, David (12 March 2003). "Ladenis cuts ties with his London restaurants". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. Retrieved 23 September 2012.[dead link]
  16. ^ Green, Emily (14 May 1994). "A chef now at home in his kitchen". The Independent. Archived from the original on 25 January 2013. Retrieved 23 September 2012.
  17. ^ Daw, Mike (11 September 2023). "Nico Ladenis: Legendary chef dies aged 89". Evening Standard. Retrieved 11 September 2023.
  18. ^ Jaine, Tom (11 September 2023). "Nico Ladenis obituary". The Guardian. Retrieved 11 September 2023.